Chanel Haute Couture: Marie Antoinette goes punk

“It’s like modern sculpture, in modern materials, but with baroque elements,” Lagerfeld said backstage after his Fall 2014 Couture Show. “This is the story of Le Corbusier going to Versailles.” Heard that, it was no wonder to see a beauty look which showed off some ’80s boybands references yet made sure to also please Marie Antoinette.

“È come una scultura moderna, realizzata in materiali contemporanei ma con elementi barocchi.” Così, Karl Lagerfeld ha presentato la sua collezione di Haute Couture per la stagione a venire. “È la storia di Le Corbusier che va a Versailles”. Non ha sorpreso, dunque, vedere un beauty look basato su contrasti di forme e texture che, pur giocando con riferimenti anni Ottanta, non ha lasciato a bocca asciutta le Marie Antoniette contemporanee.

Dreadlocks couture and pop bright eyes @ Chanel AW14

Supermarket shopping will never be the same. Chanel’s AW14 show was bold, provocative and brilliant, it was a celebration of consumerism, from the ‘grand magasin’ set-up to the outfits. Lagerfeld’s message was crystal clear and as far as beauty’s concerned, we got the point: from now on it will be ok to go grocery shopping in Chanel tweed, whether it is worn as a coat or in the hair.

Grazie a Kaiser Karl, d’ora in poi andare al supermercato sarà un’esperienza molto meno banale. Per l’AI14 di Chanel, il direttore creativo della Maison, ha creato un allestimento da mille e uno scontrino, dando vita e brandizzando un intero supermercato, ubicato niente meno che al Grand Palais. Le modelle erano libere di sfilare fra le corsie e gli scaffali brandendo carrelli della spesa e cestini a catenella e indossando giacche di tweed e dreadlock couture adornati dallo stesso tessuto di lana.

Striking glassy eyes at Dior AW14

Remember Miranda Priestley’s cerulean blue? Well, here it is again. Backstage at Dior’s AW14, beauty guru Pat McGrath played a lot with the eyes using a theatrical latex paint in cerulean blue and earthy khaki green.

Vi ricordate il blu ceruleo di Miranda Priestley ne Il Diavolo Veste Prada? Bene, eccolo di nuovo ma, a questo giro, non su un maglione o su una cintura, bensì ad adornare le palpebre delle modelle dell’AI 2014 di Dior. Il finish? Stile latex.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 4, 2014Dior, AW2014, pfw, patmcgrathreal, christiandior, blue, latex, patmcgrath, glitter, eye, backstageComment

Blue Velvet and Twin Peaks @ Kenzo AW14

For Kenzo’s AW14 show, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon convinced David Lynch to collaborate with them: after two seasons inspired by the filmmaker’s great works (especially Twin Peaks), this was was finally directed by him. The result has been a spectacular mix of mystery and emotion that has been seized upon by beauty-wise Aaron de Mey and Anthony Turner.

Per l’AI 2014 di Kenzo, Carol Lim e Humberto Leon hanno collaborato con il regista David Lynch per la realizzazione della sfilata. Già nelle due stagioni passate gli stilisti avevano fatto riferimento alle sue opere - con attenzione particolare a Twin Peaks - ma quest’anno, sono finalmente riusciti ad avere lui stesso a dirigere lo show. Il risultato è stato un mix di mistero e sentimento che è stato colto al volo da Aaron de Mey e Anthony Turner.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 3, 2014Kenzo, pfw, AW2014, maccosmetics, macbackstage, Aaron De Mey, aarondemey, ponytails, blueComment

Jungle fever @ Balmain AW14

Balmain goes jungle. For next fall Olivier Rousteing created a fearless mash-up of hip hop style and safari chic and Mcknight and Pechuex followed him promptly. Make-up was barely there, as the girls were ready for an expedition into the wild, and an unbrushed, lazy ponytail with a strict center part showed off the neckless and the earrings of the collection.

Per il prossimo inverno Balmain si è fatto selvaggio. Olivier Rousteing, direttore creativo della maison, ha dato vita a un impavido ibrido di stile hip-hop e jungle fever che è stato colto al volo per il beauty look da Sam Mcknight e Tom Pechuex.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 3, 2014balmain, junglefever, olivierrousteing, tompecheux, sammcknight, oribe, pfw, AW2014Comment

At Lanvin they are not afraid to play - AW14

An ink sketch is what models wore on their eyelid at Lanvin next fall runway. Pat McGrath wanted the girls to be brave and strong so she played with a contrast: eyes vs lashes.

Uno schizzo di inchiostro è ciò che ha definito il make-up del prossimo inverno di Lanvin. Path McGrath ha giocato sul contrasto di occhi contro ciglia per dar vita a delle ragazze coraggiose e forti.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 3, 2014Lanvin, pfw, AW2014, Pat McGrath, patmcgrathreal, Guido Palau, guidopalau, eyes, lashes, wetComment

Faux bob and graphic eyes @ Dries Van Noten AW14

Dries Van Noten next fall collection was full of prints, bold combinations and forties-esque references. That’s why Peter Phillips and Sam McKnight created an incredible beauty look, with a graphic element for the make-up and a forties feeling for the hair.

La collezione del prossimo inverno di Dries Van Noten è stata un tripudio di stampe, combinazioni audaci e richiami Anni Quaranta. Ecco perché il make-up è stato tenuto “sotto tono” concentrando l’attenzione su un solo elemento grafico e i capelli sono stati raccolti in un faux bob stile Forties.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 28, 2014driesvannoten, backstage, AW2014, maccosmetics, macbackstage, peterphilips, pfw, fauxbob, baretteComment

Earthly shades took the center stage @ Milan Fashion Week AW14

Brown is the new colour to have, at least as far as it concern Milan Fashion Week beauty looks. A similar earthly vibe was noted as well in New York but in Milan it was definitely more evident. Used on cheeks, eyes and lips it could seem old but rather it is wise and, if used properly and with a modern take, it delivers a natural and gorgeous finish.

Marrone è il nuovo must-have in fatto di bellezza. Visto sulle passerelle Newyorkesi si sta riconfermando in questi giorni anche nei backstage Milanesi dove i make-up artist lo stanno usando all over.

Bardot inspired women @ Versace AW14

Intense and glamorous, yet clean. At Versace everything was about elegant women with high maintenance beauty. Think of Brigitte Bardot and you get the idea.

La donna Versace del prossimo inverno è un’interpretazione in chiave moderna di Brigitte Bardot: intensa, affascinante ma semplice.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 24, 2014MFW, AW2014, Sixties, Pat McGrath, Guido Palau, Versace, RedkenComment

Sofisticated, yet naughty London Girls @ Blumarine AW14

At Blumarine it seems they love to maintain the continuity of identity: think of last season’ strong girl and you get the idea of what has been presented for next Fall. In charge of the beauty look, James Pecis and Tom Pecheux reinterpreted the loose bouncy waves and black pencil-rimmed eyes that they had created for SS14.

Da Blumarine amano la continuità di stile e identità: pensate alla ragazza che ha sfilato la scorsa stagione e vi farete un’idea di quella voluta per il prossimo inverno. James Pecis e Tom Pecheux, a capo di hair e make up, hanno reinterpretato le morbide onde e gli occhi cerchiati di nero che avevano presentato per la PE14.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 24, 2014Blumarine, Moroccanoil, AW2014, MFW, MAC Cosmetics, heritageComment

Everything was liquid @ Julien Macdonald AW14

Architecture and stained glass windows were the inspiration for Macdonald’s whole collection and makeup artist Val Garland for L’Oreal Paris used it as a springboard for her beauty look, combining the cobalts, burgundies and golds of the stained glass to create a dramatic smoky eye.

Architettura e vetrate colorate sono state d’ispirazione a tutta la collezione di Julien MacDonald e hanno fatto da mood board al beauty look pensato da Val Garland che, mischiando le sfumature di cobalto, d’amaranto e d’oro tipiche dell’arte del vetro ha creato uno smoky eye d’impatto.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 19, 2014lfw, FW2014, AW2014, Julien Macdonald, Val Garland, Jamis Pecis, L'Oreal ParisComment