FW2014 — The Coverage — Beautique

Posts in FW2014

Chanel gives opulence a modern twist at Métiers d'Art Show in Salzburg

Chanel gives opulence a modern twist at Métiers d'Art Show in Salzburg

Dalla location regale e Rococò del Castello di Leopoldskron alle giacche delicatamente ricamate fino al makeup delineato d’oro, tutto parlava di opulenza all’ultimo Show Métiers d'Art Paris-Salzburg di Chanel. Non sorprende dunque che gli abiti portati in passerelle siano stati stupefacenti così come il beauty look, che non è passato inosservato neanche questa stagione.

From the royal and romantic location of Castle Leopoldskron in Salzburg to the golden edged eye makeup, everything was pure opulence at Chanel’s last Métiers d'Art Show. Not surprisingly, the clothes worn on the runway were amazing as well as the beauty look, which even this season has not gone unnoticed.

Chanel Haute Couture: Marie Antoinette goes punk

Chanel Haute Couture: Marie Antoinette goes punk

“It’s like modern sculpture, in modern materials, but with baroque elements,” Lagerfeld said backstage after his Fall 2014 Couture Show. “This is the story of Le Corbusier going to Versailles.” Heard that, it was no wonder to see a beauty look which showed off some ’80s boybands references yet made sure to also please Marie Antoinette.

“È come una scultura moderna, realizzata in materiali contemporanei ma con elementi barocchi.” Così, Karl Lagerfeld ha presentato la sua collezione di Haute Couture per la stagione a venire. “È la storia di Le Corbusier che va a Versailles”. Non ha sorpreso, dunque, vedere un beauty look basato su contrasti di forme e texture che, pur giocando con riferimenti anni Ottanta, non ha lasciato a bocca asciutta le Marie Antoniette contemporanee.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014, CoutureClaudia CioccaJuly 11, 2014Chanel, chanelcouture, Haute Couture, Couture, Fall2014, AW2014, Modern, Baroque, punk, metallic, cateye, make-up, chanel beautyComment

PFW is over and here it is what happened backstage

PFW is over and here it is what happened backstage

Paris fashion week is over and our craving for new beauty directions has been satisfied.

If New York had been classy, London experimental and Milan a bit more edgy and daring than usual, in the City of Lights they tried different paths, all referring to an overall impression of resilient femininity. ‘Tough’ was the buzzword of the french season and it was translated in graphic shapes as sculptural hairstyles, illustrative, bold eye lines and excellent plays on light and shadow.

È finita anche la settimana della moda di Parigi e la nostra brama di nuove tendenze è stata finalmente soddisfatta. Se New York si è tenuta sul classico, Londra ha sperimentato e Milano ha osato più del solito, nella Ville Lumière hanno provato nuove strade che si sono riunite tutte sotto un’estetica di forte femminilità. “Duro” è stato l’aggettivo della stagione ed è stato tradotto in look grafici fatti di hairstyle scultorei, occhi dalle linee audaci e incredibili giochi di contouring.

Dreadlocks couture and pop bright eyes @ Chanel AW14

Dreadlocks couture and pop bright eyes @ Chanel AW14

Supermarket shopping will never be the same. Chanel’s AW14 show was bold, provocative and brilliant, it was a celebration of consumerism, from the ‘grand magasin’ set-up to the outfits. Lagerfeld’s message was crystal clear and as far as beauty’s concerned, we got the point: from now on it will be ok to go grocery shopping in Chanel tweed, whether it is worn as a coat or in the hair.

Grazie a Kaiser Karl, d’ora in poi andare al supermercato sarà un’esperienza molto meno banale. Per l’AI14 di Chanel, il direttore creativo della Maison, ha creato un allestimento da mille e uno scontrino, dando vita e brandizzando un intero supermercato, ubicato niente meno che al Grand Palais. Le modelle erano libere di sfilare fra le corsie e gli scaffali brandendo carrelli della spesa e cestini a catenella e indossando giacche di tweed e dreadlock couture adornati dallo stesso tessuto di lana.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 6, 2014Chanel, pfw, sammcknight, peterphillips, ragtweeds, dreadlock, supermarket, chic, beauty, oribe, fudge, silk, caradelevingne, lindseywixon, AW2014Comment

Giambattista Valli goes bare for AW14

Giambattista Valli goes bare for AW14

All was quiet backstage at Giambattista Valli as hair and make-up were all about a raw reality. Buzzword of this and the previous season, ‘raw’ means natural, a bare ‘back to reality’ look that has no frippery nor embellishment.

Nel backstage dell’AI14 di Giambattista Valli si è visto il trionfo della bellezza nuda e cruda. Così come sulle passerelle della PE, anche il prossimo inverno si voterà a un look semplice fatto al massimo di concealer e fondotinta leggeri.

FW2014, Catwalk CoverageClaudia CioccaMarch 5, 2014rawreality, raw, nude, bare, maccosmetics, macbackstage, Giambattista Valli, giambattistavalli, josiemaran, valgarland, Orlando Pita, orlandopitaComment

Oscar 2014: Olivia Wilde and her stunning cat eye

Oscar 2014: Olivia Wilde and her stunning cat eye

Best maternity look for Olivia Wilde the actress that always sports stunning cat eyes. It was a Sixties look, chic, simple and graphic, but it made a statement. Make-up artist Melanie Iglesias for Revlon created the star's signature look by sketching the shape with ColorStay Eyeliner in Black and applying Revlon Colorstay Liquid Liner in Blackest Black on it.

Olivia Wilde ha cavalcato il red carpet della notte degli Oscar in tutto il suo splendore di futura mamma e si è fatta notare per l’incarnato flawless e il suo cat eye, un trucco che è diventato oramai il suo marchio di fabbrica.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 4, 2014cateye, Olivia Wilde, Oscar2014, Revlon, Melanie Iglesias, Cat EyeComment

ROTHKO BLURRED BLOCKS AT ELIE SAAB AW14

ROTHKO BLURRED BLOCKS AT ELIE SAAB AW14

A Rothko painting - in blue and green - was the inspiration for the make-up at Elie Saab’s AW14 show. Mr. Saab was crystal clear in his guidelines and, no sooner said then done, Tom Pecheux took his cue from the blues and greens in the painting.

Ispirazione Rothko nel backstage dell’AI14 di Elie Saab. Una delle opere dell’artista - nei toni dei verdi e dei blu - è stata mostrata a Tom Pecheux come ’spunto’ per il trucco, una direttiva che il make-up artist ha colto al volo.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 4, 2014eliesaab, tompecheux, rothko, maccosmetics, macbackstage, eyes, colorsComment

Striking glassy eyes at Dior AW14

Striking glassy eyes at Dior AW14

Remember Miranda Priestley’s cerulean blue? Well, here it is again. Backstage at Dior’s AW14, beauty guru Pat McGrath played a lot with the eyes using a theatrical latex paint in cerulean blue and earthy khaki green.

Vi ricordate il blu ceruleo di Miranda Priestley ne Il Diavolo Veste Prada? Bene, eccolo di nuovo ma, a questo giro, non su un maglione o su una cintura, bensì ad adornare le palpebre delle modelle dell’AI 2014 di Dior. Il finish? Stile latex.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 4, 2014Dior, AW2014, pfw, patmcgrathreal, christiandior, blue, latex, patmcgrath, glitter, eye, backstageComment

Blue Velvet and Twin Peaks @ Kenzo AW14

Blue Velvet and Twin Peaks @ Kenzo AW14

For Kenzo’s AW14 show, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon convinced David Lynch to collaborate with them: after two seasons inspired by the filmmaker’s great works (especially Twin Peaks), this was was finally directed by him. The result has been a spectacular mix of mystery and emotion that has been seized upon by beauty-wise Aaron de Mey and Anthony Turner.

Per l’AI 2014 di Kenzo, Carol Lim e Humberto Leon hanno collaborato con il regista David Lynch per la realizzazione della sfilata. Già nelle due stagioni passate gli stilisti avevano fatto riferimento alle sue opere - con attenzione particolare a Twin Peaks - ma quest’anno, sono finalmente riusciti ad avere lui stesso a dirigere lo show. Il risultato è stato un mix di mistero e sentimento che è stato colto al volo da Aaron de Mey e Anthony Turner.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 3, 2014Kenzo, pfw, AW2014, maccosmetics, macbackstage, Aaron De Mey, aarondemey, ponytails, blueComment

Jungle fever @ Balmain AW14

Jungle fever @ Balmain AW14

Balmain goes jungle. For next fall Olivier Rousteing created a fearless mash-up of hip hop style and safari chic and Mcknight and Pechuex followed him promptly. Make-up was barely there, as the girls were ready for an expedition into the wild, and an unbrushed, lazy ponytail with a strict center part showed off the neckless and the earrings of the collection.

Per il prossimo inverno Balmain si è fatto selvaggio. Olivier Rousteing, direttore creativo della maison, ha dato vita a un impavido ibrido di stile hip-hop e jungle fever che è stato colto al volo per il beauty look da Sam Mcknight e Tom Pechuex.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 3, 2014balmain, junglefever, olivierrousteing, tompecheux, sammcknight, oribe, pfw, AW2014Comment

At Lanvin they are not afraid to play - AW14

At Lanvin they are not afraid to play - AW14

An ink sketch is what models wore on their eyelid at Lanvin next fall runway. Pat McGrath wanted the girls to be brave and strong so she played with a contrast: eyes vs lashes.

Uno schizzo di inchiostro è ciò che ha definito il make-up del prossimo inverno di Lanvin. Path McGrath ha giocato sul contrasto di occhi contro ciglia per dar vita a delle ragazze coraggiose e forti.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaMarch 3, 2014Lanvin, pfw, AW2014, Pat McGrath, patmcgrathreal, Guido Palau, guidopalau, eyes, lashes, wetComment

Faux bob and graphic eyes @ Dries Van Noten AW14

Faux bob and graphic eyes @ Dries Van Noten AW14

Dries Van Noten next fall collection was full of prints, bold combinations and forties-esque references. That’s why Peter Phillips and Sam McKnight created an incredible beauty look, with a graphic element for the make-up and a forties feeling for the hair.

La collezione del prossimo inverno di Dries Van Noten è stata un tripudio di stampe, combinazioni audaci e richiami Anni Quaranta. Ecco perché il make-up è stato tenuto “sotto tono” concentrando l’attenzione su un solo elemento grafico e i capelli sono stati raccolti in un faux bob stile Forties.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 28, 2014driesvannoten, backstage, AW2014, maccosmetics, macbackstage, peterphilips, pfw, fauxbob, baretteComment

Graphic and arty make-up @ Anthony Vaccarello AW

Graphic and arty make-up @ Anthony Vaccarello AW

René Gruau and Tony Viramontes were the inspiration for Anthony Vaccarello’s make-up created by Tom Pecheux for Estée Lauder. If you didn’t know, these two guys were renewed fashion illustrators and the result of these contaminations had been impressive, very graphic and arty, still not perfect. What Pecheux did was using dental floss dipped in glossy red lipstick and black eyeliner to create lines on model’s eyelids.

Le illustrazioni di René Gruau e Tony Viramontes sono stata l’ispirazione per il make up del prossimo autunno di Anthony Vaccarello. A capo del team Estée Lauder, Tom Pecheux ha battuto le aspettative rifacendosi ai disegni dei due storici illustratori di moda e traducendo i loro grafismi in make-up grazie a un filo interdentale, a un rossetto rosso e a un eyeliner nero. Leggere per credere.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 27, 2014pfw, FW2014, anthonyvaccarello, tompecheux, Estée Lauder, Esteelauder, anthonyturner, graphic, arty, redeyeliner, blackeyelinerComment

Earthly shades took the center stage @ Milan Fashion Week AW14

Earthly shades took the center stage @ Milan Fashion Week AW14

Brown is the new colour to have, at least as far as it concern Milan Fashion Week beauty looks. A similar earthly vibe was noted as well in New York but in Milan it was definitely more evident. Used on cheeks, eyes and lips it could seem old but rather it is wise and, if used properly and with a modern take, it delivers a natural and gorgeous finish.

Marrone è il nuovo must-have in fatto di bellezza. Visto sulle passerelle Newyorkesi si sta riconfermando in questi giorni anche nei backstage Milanesi dove i make-up artist lo stanno usando all over.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014, TrendClaudia CioccaFebruary 25, 2014MFW, AW2014, Etro, Marni, Moschino, Costume National, MAC Cosmetics, Tom Pecheux, Mark Carrasquillo, Ports1961, Lucia Pieroni, Brownisthenewshade, brownComment

Milan Fashion Week is Over!

Milan Fashion Week is Over!

MFW is over but, before getting all excited about Paris, lets try to define the emerging trends seen on the italian runways. Subtle has been the buzzword here, backstage they finally dared a bit more than usual and what has been presented were solid and strong trends.

È finita la settimana della moda milanese e ora tocca a Parigi. Nei backstage si è finalmente osato un po’ di più rispetto alle stagioni precedenti (la grande critica a Milano è di essere un po’ troppo crowd-pleaser per quanto riguarda i beauty look) dando vita a delle tendenze forti ma al tempo stesso sottili e acute.

Bardot inspired women @ Versace AW14

Bardot inspired women @ Versace AW14

Intense and glamorous, yet clean. At Versace everything was about elegant women with high maintenance beauty. Think of Brigitte Bardot and you get the idea.

La donna Versace del prossimo inverno è un’interpretazione in chiave moderna di Brigitte Bardot: intensa, affascinante ma semplice.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 24, 2014MFW, AW2014, Sixties, Pat McGrath, Guido Palau, Versace, RedkenComment

Sofisticated, yet naughty London Girls @ Blumarine AW14

Sofisticated, yet naughty London Girls @ Blumarine AW14

At Blumarine it seems they love to maintain the continuity of identity: think of last season’ strong girl and you get the idea of what has been presented for next Fall. In charge of the beauty look, James Pecis and Tom Pecheux reinterpreted the loose bouncy waves and black pencil-rimmed eyes that they had created for SS14.

Da Blumarine amano la continuità di stile e identità: pensate alla ragazza che ha sfilato la scorsa stagione e vi farete un’idea di quella voluta per il prossimo inverno. James Pecis e Tom Pecheux, a capo di hair e make up, hanno reinterpretato le morbide onde e gli occhi cerchiati di nero che avevano presentato per la PE14.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 24, 2014Blumarine, Moroccanoil, AW2014, MFW, MAC Cosmetics, heritageComment

Ronald McDonald and Coco Chanel’ hybrids @ Moschino AW14

Ronald McDonald and Coco Chanel’ hybrids @ Moschino AW14

Bright and brash, this is all can be said about Jeremy Scott’s Moschino fashion show. Imagine a hybrid of Ronald McDonald and Coco Chanel walking down the runway and laugh out loud. It was funny, indeed, and that was why make-up and hair had to maintain a low profile, which at Maison Moschino it means easy but inspired.

Geniale e irriverente, queste le migliori parole per definire la sfilata di Moschino diretta da Jeremy Scott. Immaginatevi degli ibridi di Ronald McDonald e Coco Chanel cavalcare le passerelle e ridete. Divertente è stato divertente, portabile non so quanto. Ecco perché hair e make-up hanno tenuto un profilo basso (ma comunque denso di significati e ispirazioni, non dimenticate che siamo da Moschino e nulla è lasciato al caso), va bene esagerare ma a tutto c’è un limite.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 23, 2014MAC Cosmetics, Moschino, MFW, FW2014, Coco Chanel, Ronald McDonald, Lucia Pieroni, Paul HanlonComment

Basic beauty with no frippery @ Prada AW14

Basic beauty with no frippery @ Prada AW14

Basic is the word that has been used from Guido Palau and Pat McGrath to describe their looks for Prada’s next fall. Honestly, basic is not the definition I would use but their intention was to create a pared-down mode of beauty that needed no frippery, and this was evident.

Essenziale è stata la parola di punta nel backstage di Miuccia Prada e, sia Guido Palau all’hairstyle sia Pat McGrath al trucco, hanno definito così le loro creazioni. Onestamente “basic” non è il termine che avrei scelto io per questi look ricercati ma la loro intenzione era quella di creare una bellezza senza ostentazione o fronzoli.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 22, 2014MFW, Pat McGrath, Guido Palau, Prada, FW2014, basicbeauty, redlips, clumpylashesComment

Fairies @ Alberta Ferretti AW14

Fairies @ Alberta Ferretti AW14

What we have seen backstage at Alberta Ferretti was a fantasy world made of fairies and wood elves. Everything from the collection to the beauty look alluded to softness, romanticism and imagination.

Ispirazione fate ed elfi per l’AI2014 di Alberta Ferretti. Dalla collezione al beauty look tutto rimanda a delicatezza, immaginazione e romanticismo.

Catwalk Coverage, FW2014Claudia CioccaFebruary 21, 2014MFW, FW2014, Alberta Ferretti, Lloyd Simmonds, Guido PalauComment